Continuing, we passed doors of simple palm trunks, some studded with brass, as well as low arches, curved alcoves, and dakkar – built-in benches – which, perfect for lounging, usually indicate a nearby mosque (there are 21 of them, though only a handful are still in use, and only on Fridays). Sometimes the arches were incised, chiselled or decorated with delicate paintings (a hand of Fatima, a star, intricate geometries), adding to the mystery and allure.