To travel along it today is more than just an opportunity to gaze at rolling fells. Scheduled passenger services still rumble down the line seven times a day each way, traversing every bridge, viaduct and tunnel of the original route. Even the prolonged blackout that comes when passing through Blea Moor Tunnel gives a chance to reflect on the sweat and toil of more than a century and a half earlier. And when you reach Carlisle? Your best bet is to grab a pint at the platform pub – the aptly named 301 Miles From London – have a wander, then do the only sensible thing remaining: hop back on board for the return trip.