Making it is surprisingly straightforward. I simply add the cider to the pan, along with apple juice, cinnamon, cloves, sugar, and satsuma zest – the recipe asked for orange, but I already have some increasingly questionable vintage satsumas, and the first rule of low-carbon cooking is to avoid waste. Then I stir until I detect the delectable notes of clove and cinnamon rising in the steam. To serve, I simply pour it into my most goblet-like glass, and remind myself that after around 15 minutes of simmering at around 78C (172F), I will only have evaporated around 40% of the alcohol – mulled cider is still decidedly alcoholic.